Venice Carnival (Carnevale)

Venice's Carnival takes place in February, in the ten days leading up to Shrove Tuesday. In 2008 the dates (unusually early) are 26th January - 5th February.
> See photos of the 2008 Venice Carnival
> See photos of the 2007 Venice Carnival

About Carnevale

Carnival, or Carnevale, has been celebrated for centuries throughout Italy. The word may well derive from carne vale - 'farewell to meat' - which would explain the function of the celebration: an opportunity to indulge and use up such treats before the start of Lent (like an extended Pancake Day).

In modern Italy Carnevale is generally a time for children, who are led, carried and wheeled around town dressed in costumes - from cute fluffy animal suits to musketeers and Harry Potters, leaving a trail of confetti, sweets and 'silly string' littering streets and piazzas. Sometimes the celebrations extend to organised events for the whole community, but on the whole it's not a very important time for adults.

In Venice, however, the tourist board and hoteliers hit upon a fantastic money-earner in the 1980s when they revived a picturesque version of Venice's past. In Venice it's the grown-ups who have most of the fun, with masked balls, costume parades and a slightly antiseptic nostalgia for more decadent times.

Carnival in Venice

However much the modern Carnival may be contrived for tourists, it's undeniably atmospheric to walk down a lane in Venice and pass cloaked and masked figures. The tourist board and hotels urge their guests to participate by wearing at least a mask as they tour the town. It can be an exciting time for children: as long as the dehumanising masks don't scare them, there are plenty of opportunities for fun. Young and old can admire the spectacle and select their favourite costumed characters, and there are plenty of opportunities to photograph your loved ones alongside dramatically-costumed carnival-goers. The city is very busy, particularly during the two Carnival weekends, and there is a genuinely festive atmosphere.

This year (2008) Carnival is being organised for the first time by a consortium headed by the Casino. There are lots of events scheduled all around Venice, but it hasn't got off to a very smooth start, with delays distributing the programme, and then all of the first day's events (Saturday 26th) being cancelled due to the city's decision to have an official day of mourning for two workmen killed recently on the mainland.

Free entertainment and public shows

Throughout the Carnival period there is plenty of entertainment to be had around St. Mark's Square and the adjacent Piazzetta. A programme of events takes place in the Piazza, open to everyone. A schedule is displayed on notices around the square (or pick up a calendar at the tourist office). Apart from the organised events, there is a lot of fun to be had costume-spotting. Costumed characters parade and preen throughout the day, happily posing for armies of photographers. Some are in greater demand than others; after half-an-hour's wandering you'll probably have your own favourites.

To add to the festival atmosphere, there are several refreshment stalls in the Piazza selling snacks and drinks like mulled wine, local Bellini cocktails and the local speciality fritelle.

The grand opening celebration of the Carnival takes place on the first Sunday, with an event called il volo dell'angelo (the flight of the angel). This adaptation of an old tradition involves an 'angel' (in 2007 this was a female swimming champion; in 2008 the rapper Coolio) swinging on harnesses from the belltower into the Piazzetta San Marco. One of the big events is generally an afternoon parade of costumes on a catwalk in St. Mark's Square. If your costume is fabulous and you're feeling confident, then you can join in. When we visited, there were participants from England, San Francisco, Brazil, France, Germany and all parts of Italy. The festival ends with a big celebration and fireworks above St. Mark's.

Masked balls and special events

There are a number of special events and balls held in Venice during the Carnival. Tickets are generally expensive and should be booked in advance, but if you've left it late, it's still worth calling around. Venice's opera house, La Fenice, hosted one grand event last year, and some of the smarter hotels also put on balls and parties.

Costumes and masks

If you've always had a secret hankering to wear fancy dress, then the Carnival is a perfect opportunity to indulge without attracting stares. Masks, cloaks and wigs are easily purchased at countless tourist shops and souvenir stalls. If you're looking for something more elaborate or authentic, visit one of Venice's papier-mâché workshops where good-quality masks are handmade. Costumes can be hired at shops throughout the city, but they may be in short supply if you don't book them promptly.

For a one-stop Carnival shop, visit the Mercato delle maschere e dei costumi Veneziani, in Campo Santo Stefano. This little market is made up of stalls from some of Venice's artisan mask and costume workshops, and runs for the duration of the Carnival.

Further afield

If you are really getting into the Carnival spirit, check in local newspapers or at the tourist office for details of other local festivals. They won't be as glitzy as the main Venice events, but all the local towns celebrate the Carnival in their own way and the more 'local' atmosphere may appeal to tourists looking for authenticity. The less touristy areas of Venice are also more typically Italian in their celebrations.

Booking for the Carnival

This is just about Venice's busiest time of year. Hotel rates are at peak-season levels, and you should book well ahead or find your choices much reduced. St. Mark's Square can get very busy, particularly during the special events. Venice's most popular tourist attractions are likely to have queues at this time. It's still possible to find silent and atmospheric areas - just head off the tourist trail into the quieter residential parts of Cannaregio or Castello.

> Venice Carnival photographs
> Other events in Venice