Lio Piccolo in the Venetian lagoon makes an unusual and very different day out from Venice and is also an attractive destination for a bike excursion for visitors staying in local beach resorts such as Lido di Jesolo and Cavallino. In this post I’ll explain why Lio Piccolo, although just a tiny rural hamlet, is both important and interesting. And I’ll share my experience and tips after an enjoyable outing I made from Venice last week using public ferries and hiring a bicycle.
Where is Lio Piccolo and why is it so important?
If you have ever seen Venice’s lagoon from above, you’ll already have an idea of this peculiar and secretive land and waterscape. Mudbanks, islets, promontories and causeways seem to squirm across the ever-changing tidal waters of the Venetian lagoon. Boats plough along deeper canals on secretive missions, and old fish-farming areas are divided by vegetation-covered banks. Agricultural and fishing buildings stand surrounded by water, occasional cars drive along dirt tracks with water either side, and twice a day the salt water of the sea flushes through the freshwater entering from mainland rivers and canals.
Up in the north-eastern corner of Venice’s lagoon, Lio Piccolo is a long and irregularly shaped ‘island’ – more correctly an archipelago or interlinked spits of land – connected via a narrow winding causeway with the ‘mainland’ peninsula that juts down from the resort of Lido di Jesolo and shelters the northern part of the lagoon. A microcosm of lagoon history, this sparsely-inhabited spot was once busy with thriving industries of salt-production, fishing and agriculture, some of which still continues.
This unassuming locale has been in the news in the last few years due to exciting archaeological discoveries. Excavations at Lio Piccolo are rewriting the early history of human settlement here, long before settlers founded the island communities which were to become Venice. I learned about the dig and had a ‘preview’ of some of the Roman era finds during an unusual experience on another island a few years ago, but I’ll write about that another time…
A Roman villa, excavated here in the lagoon, may have been one of the elegant coastal villas described at the time along this coastline. Fragments of fresco and a carved gem indicate the buildings were decorated for well-off occupants. But evidence has also demonstrated this was a business. Archaeologists have discovered, uniquely in Italy, a Roman ostriarium, a basin for farming oysters, perhaps to supply the nearby Roman town of Altinum. A small exhibition about the Roman villa of Lio Piccolo and its ostrarium can be seen until November 2025 in Venice’s Natural History Museum (you’ll find it at the foot of a stairwell near the Grand Canal doors; one of the display cases is pictured below). More excavations are taking place this summer (even during my visit) so there will probably be more fascinating revelations to come.
Cycling to Lio Piccolo
Of course, most of the summer visitors enjoying a bike ride out through this atmospheric and unique lagoon scenery won’t be on the trail of Roman history. Lio Piccolo is a popular destination for a cycling excursion for mainland locals and particularly summer holiday-makers staying at the beach resorts which stud the ‘riviera’ running up the coast north from Venice.
There are a couple of cyclists who board the ferry with their bikes at the Lido, but on this July weekday I am perhaps the only day-tripper travelling from Venice. There is so much to do in the city itself that most visitors won’t prioritise a journey so far from the glamorous attractions of the city and more famous islands. But if you are staying for longer in Venice, already know the city well, or just want something totally different, this excursion is a fun choice.
Practicalities: Boats, bike hire and more
From Venice the best access point to Lio Piccolo is Punta Sabbioni, at the southern tip of the promontory between north lagoon and Adriatic sea. Regular ACTV ferries run from Venice to Punta Sabbioni. Services 14 and 15 start at the San Zaccaria A stop in Venice, near St Mark’s. The 14 crosses to the Lido di Venezia, then runs up the lagoon close to its seaward side, past the historic church of San Nicolò on the Lido, a historic island fort, Sant’Andrea, and then the northernmost mouth of the lagoon, where you can see the huge installations for Venice’s flood defences. The journey from San Zaccaria to Punta Sabbioni takes around 40 minutes (ACTV ferry timetables).
The majority of visitors use these boat services in the opposite direction, travelling from the northern beach resorts towards Venice in the morning and returning in the afternoon, so you may be lucky and find plenty of space aboard as you make the trip in reverse. Some services of the number 14 are busier, as they continue on to the colourful painted island of Burano, and you could consider a long day out incorporating this into your itinerary. The 15 is an express ferry operating at peak times for those travelling into Venice for the day, so although faster, it is less useful if you’re travelling the opposite direction
Depending on your starting location in Venice you may find more convenient ways to travel than via San Zaccaria. I was staying on the Giudecca island last week, so I caught a summer ‘beach’ ferry service (number 8) to the Lido’s Santa Margherita Elisabetta stop and changed to the 14 there.
When setting off, I’d recommend going equipped. Sun lotion and insect repellent will be vital for much of the year under the sun and in the lagoon environment. A drinking-water flask or bottle is essential, and you should take ID/passport for bike rental. There are bar-restaurant options along the route for refreshments.
Although I made this outing in July, temperatures weren’t extreme and I didn’t need extra drinking water beyond what I carried in my flask. But do make sure you take enough with you for your excursion and fill up when you can. Water taps are marked on the local map at Punta Sabbioni and Treporti, though I didn’t check for these.
Disembarking the ferry at Punta Sabbioni, I prioritise a last toilet opportunity (so I think at the time) and due to the crowds using this transport hub for travelling to Burano and Venice, have to join a 15-minute queue for public toilets near the boat stop (50 cents). Not a great start, but it turns to be the only below-par bit of the day, and I even find another public toilet later, anyway.
I’d recommend starting with a visit to the tourist information office at Punta Sabbioni, also near the boat and bus stops, where you can pick up information about this area. Although I’ve already roughly planned my day with Google Maps, I collect a helpful free map of cycling routes. Although simplified and stylised, this proves fine for my route-finding and shows a few points of interest, along with indicating where there are cycle paths or cycle lanes. This area is very popular with German-speaking sun-seekers, and tourist information is usually in Italian, German and English. Details of the tourist information offices, downloadable maps – including the cycling map – and lots more info is available on the excellent local official tourist information website: https://www.visitcavallino.com/
Next, I need a bicycle. I’ve read a blog post by a walker who hiked out to Lio Piccolo, but I don’t fancy miles of shadeless trudging on roads in hot summer weather (I can see this might be pleasant in cooler temperatures, if you start your walk a little nearer Lio Piccolo, at the Treporti ferry stop or car park at Saccagnana).
At Punta Sabbioni, bicycle hire is available at the car park along the ferry shore close to the boat stops: https://www.parcheggioautomoto.it/. Head to the car park entrance on the inland side, facing the road, and ask at the kiosk. Behind the kiosk they have a big shed and bike store. I opt for a ‘city bike’ for 4 hours+ at €10. Note that in Italy when hiring bikes or other vehicles you are usually expected to leave a document behind as a guarantee, so I have brought my passport for this purpose.
The route to Lio Piccolo
Working hard to maintain my balance on a bike (this is really not one of my skills!) I head out to the lagoon shore at the next junction, and pedal north with the lagoon on my left. Over the water I see the farming island of Sant’Erasmo, one of my favourite summer destinations when I’m in Venice.
Keeping as close to the lagoon shore as possible, I follow a road (not much traffic), pass an intriguing 19th-century fortress, Forte Treporti, on my right, then head out along a car-free lane to the lagoon shore. As this route rounds a corner, passing fishermen, there are excellent panoramic views.
The route to Lio Piccolo includes cycle lanes along a road, narrow rural roads shared with cars, shared-use pavements with lanes marked and a busier stretch of road through the small town of Treporti. I’m not a confident cyclist, as I’ve cycled about three times in a decade, but I find this outing safe and almost stress-free. It helps that cycling is a really popular leisure activity in the Cavallino-Treporti area, and there are more cyclists than cars around, including families with children.
Do remember that in Italy you should drive, ride and walk on the right. And be aware bicycles in Italy usually have the brakes on the opposite side to the usual UK configuration, so check before you get riding.
I cycle the same way out to Lio Piccolo and back, though if you are a more energetic and experienced cyclist you might like to take inspiration from the cycling map and plot a longer and/or circular route. There is also an intriguing extension possible by booking a ferry, but more on that later…
The standard and scenic cycling route between Punta Sabbioni and Lio Piccolo, the route that I take, follows the water’s edge from that scenic viewpoint along a broad canal and turns left over the first bridge you come to. There are signs to Lio Piccolo along the way, so it’s easy to wayfind even if you don’t have a map. Heading more or less straight on after the first bridge, you’ll cross another bridge and pass through the little town centre of Treporti with its large church.
Following the roads signposted to Lio Piccolo, I cross another bridge, pass a car park, turn left by a bar-restaurant (Osteria da Pupi) and find myself on the quiet lanes heading out past farms into the fastnesses of the Venetian lagoon.
Corte del Prà, or Piazza Santa Maria del Carmine
After the lagoon views from earlier, the next really picturesque sight is Corte del Prà (or Piazza Santa Maria del Carmine), a lovely sleepy square in a small settlement called Prà di Saccagnana. With a timeless charm, this square boasts an elegant little Veneto-style villa, former agricultural outbuildings, and a charming small chapel dedicated to the Madonna del Carmine, which I find open when I tentatively push the door. The residents obviously have a quirky, bohemian outlook and decorative details to admire and photograph around the square include a merry-go-round horse.
The most memorable and evocative part of the route was the last stretch out to Lio Piccolo, where the narrow road cuts through the lagoon, with mudbanks and water on either side. Here I pass many more cyclists, some in long streaming groups, from school parties to sporty MAMILs. The only bad thing about the rest of the ride are the cars and vans which pass. Apparently there are sometimes traffic limitations here, which seems a good idea. Due to the narrowness of the lanes, the passing traffic means that cyclists often have to stop and wait in the verge for vehicles to pass. Then, as the road leads out to a dead end, the same sightseeing cars often pass again a few minutes later as they return.
A right hand turning, heading out along a long spit of land, is signposted to Mesole. I make this detour on my return journey. On the way out, cycling past wading birds, fields and farms, I keep going until I reached Lio Piccolo. This is a strange and evocative place. There isn’t much here except a historic church and campanile, a crumbling palazzo and a couple of other buildings around a wide open space. To see the sights, such as they are, visiting at the weekend or on public holidays is best, as this is when the church and a small exhibition are open (with lunchtime closures). I’d imagine the roads are much busier though. Helpfully there is a toilet at Lio Piccolo, maintained by a local community group (you can leave an offering). Unable to find a light switch, I use a torch, but I’m nonetheless very grateful for this community-minded facility and drop a donation in the basket.
The dead-end road doesn’t finish at Lio Piccolo. Continuing on a short distance alongside a scenic stretch of water, I come to an idyllic restaurant. Al Notturno has outdoor tables under trees, serves Laguna wine, snacks and meals (heavily seafood-based) and has plenty of room for parking bikes. There’s water alongside and the whole set-up is really dreamy. I’d love to stop for an hour or two, but I don’t want to risk drink-cycling and I lack the time for a leisurely lunch (plus I’m vegetarian so don’t eat seafood). Alongside the restaurant, and signposted at various houses along the way, visitors can buy local products advertised on signs or displayed temptingly, from courgettes to honey.
I’m interested to see, as I cycled up to the restaurant, a small ferry waiting to depart. This service, I discover, runs from Lio Piccolo to Lio Maggiore over the water, and then returns to the Cavallino promontory on the Via Pordelio cantilevered cycle path. This would tie in well with exploring a wider route or for visitors staying by the seaside. The service is called Bici e Barca – check ahead as it runs infrequently and booking is required: https://www.bluedreamcavallino.com/waterbikes.html.
From the lagoonshore restaurant I walk a short way on foot past the pool of water alongside. This turns to a no-cycling footpath and then comes to an end at a locked gate. There are interesting views of a farmhouse and lagoon agriculture, though.
There is no public access to the archaeological dig at the Roman site. I do cycle down a public access road to check, but obediently turn back at a ‘private’ sign. I may not set eyes on any archaeology other than a distant sighting of a white tent and workers across the fields, but I am still, as a history-lover, pretty thrilled to have been that close to such a significant project. I wonder what other secrets still lie beneath the islets, mudbanks and waters of this mysterious lagoon, perhaps being discovered as I cycle by.
A side-trip to Mesole
Cycling back I swing off the main route to visit Mesole, where there was once a convent. The road heads along a narrow strip of land with fields alongside, and more signs advertising local products for sale. I am utterly charmed by the little chapel at Mesole, with its miniature campanile and an atmosphere partly redolent of antiquity and partly from an early 20th-century restoration. More picturesque buildings are just beyond, perhaps once part of the old convent, and the road continues onwards, but I turn and retrace my route at this point.
Excursion’s end
Heading back to Punta Sabbioni I stop for a few more photographs and soak up more of the atmosphere. Although the ride from Punta Sabbioni to Lio Piccolo officially takes about 25 minutes, it takes me much longer with my slow pace and halts for photography and sightseeing. In total I have the rental bike out for somewhere between three and half and four hours. I’d have hated to rush; this is an extremely enjoyable outing, with refreshing scenery, a pleasant breeze and fascinating sights.
I return the bike, pay, and run to catch the next ferry back to Venice, stopping off for a beach hour on the Lido.
Longer excursions
With more time and if I were more comfortable in the saddle, I’d have cycled along the waterfront back past Punta Sabbioni to the lighthouse between lagoon and sea, the Faro Pagoda. Or caught the bike ferry from Lio Piccolo to Lio Maggiore to explore more of this land and waterscape. With more time locally you could explore the Cavallino beaches and the other points of interest suggested by the tourist map, including another fortress at Ca’ Savio, where you’ll find the Pisani Battery Museum.
Alternatively you could use the Venice-Punta Sabbioni ferry to visit other islands, such as Burano, which you’ve seen over the water. You could stop off, as I did, at the Lido di Venezia on your return journey to visit the beach, admire Liberty-style villas, eat lunch or – if you have your own bicycle – cycle further and explore the Lido. There are a number of bike hire businesses here.
Staying by the sea?
If you are staying in one of the beach resorts or campsites along the Cavallino coast, there is no real need to come to Punta Sabbioni to begin this excursion. Pick up or download a map as suggested near the top of this page. If your accommodation doesn’t offer bike hire, you will probably find a local business that does (marked on the map). As described above under Longer Excursions, you’ll have the option of plotting a route exploring more of the area and perhaps using the boat service.
This a popular stretch of coastline for tourists looking for a beach holiday with access to Venice. Resorts are mostly modern and without a huge amount of cultural charm, but as you can see, in addition to the sandy beaches there are historic sights a bike ride away. And there is this intriguing lagoon landscape to discover, along with historic forts and bike and boat excursions. There are also a few rural agriturismi offering farm stays, including one agriturismo in the lagoon landscape on Lio Maggiore that I would love to visit one day (Agriturismo La Barena).
I’ve written before about Lido di Jesolo, a cheerful family-friendly resort just a short distance (or bus ride) up the coast: Lido di Jesolo.
- Find accommodation in the Cavallino-Treporti area – from lagoon agriturismi to beachfront hotels (affiliate link – thank you!)
Why visit Lio Piccolo from Venice?
- Discover a charming low-key, fascinating destination
- Other-worldly atmosphere cycling between the lagoon and sky
- Refreshing change of scenery, rural atmosphere and open spaces
- A glimpse of the farming and fishing lifestyle which has survived out among the lagoon waters for millennia
- An active day that’s family friendly
- Get close to nature and spend time bird-watching
- The fun of combining boat and bicycle exploration
- Great photo opportunities
Read more
- More days out from Venice: Venice excursions
- My Venice guidebook with lots of off-the-beaten-track suggestions: Italy Heaven Venice Guide
