Rome Restaurants

Part of the holiday pleasure in Rome is discovering your very own favourite trattoria. In our opinion, it's hard to eat badly in Rome. But for those who'd like some guidance, here are our suggestions.

For smarter restaurants, it's advisable to book, especially at the weekend. At the simpler but popular trattorie and pizzerie, there's often an informal queue or waiting list.

Many restaurants - especially in tourist areas - start serving dinner at 7pm, although nearer 9pm is a more normal time to eat. Restaurants in Rome shouldn't request a coperta (cover charge) but generally they'll bring some bread and charge you for that, anyway.

Good tourist choices

Around Rome's tourist hubs you'll find many restaurants aimed at tourists. Some are overpriced and uninspiring, but there are also plenty of reasonable restaurants. Have a look at the menu, the prices, and at the meals being served and you'll get a good idea of whether the place will suit you. Naturally you pay more in a tourist location like Piazza Navona and the Pantheon, and a Roman may not be impressed with the establishment, but it's your holiday and you may well feel the view is worth it. You only have to go a few yards from the main piazza to find cheaper fare. There are far too many decent places to list, but one of the best areas to start looking in the Centro Storico is around the narrow Via di Tor Millina (which leads off Piazza Navona) and along Via del Governo Vecchio, where you'll find plenty of pleasant restaurants with outdoor seating. Campo dei' Fiori and Trastevere are also places where you'll be spoilt for choice.

Navona Notte

Via del Teatro Pace, 44. There's nothing flash or fancy about this pizzeria, which makes it ideal for tourists on a budget. There is a wide range of good, cheap pizzas, no extras are added to the bill, and the tables inside and out are usually full.

Osteria del Gallo

Vicolo di Montevecchio, 27 (near Piazza Navona, off Via di Tor Millina). A haven just off the busy lanes west of Piazza Navona, the Osteria serves classy meals at a touch more than average tourist prices.

Pastarito - Pizzarito

There are several branches of this chain around the centre of Rome, and although they have little atmosphere the service is swift and efficient (everything is computerised and when you've finished there's no need to wait for the bill - simply go to the cash till with your table number). You can choose your own combinations of pasta and sauce, or pizza and toppings, from the long list in the menu. Portions are generous and good value for money.

Local favourites

Romans are fine judges of food, so where crowds of locals go, you can be sure to eat the best. But note that they can be chaotic places with long queues.

Dar Poeta

Vicolo del Bologna (Trastevere). So busy that they ran out of cutlery when we were there, Dar Poeta serves legendary pizzas and generous, filling bruschette.

Da Tonino

Via del Governo Vecchio, 18. An old-fashioned Roman eating place, with a few, sought-after tables, no pretensions at all, and good, cheap pasta.

Da Francesco

Piazza del Fico (close to Piazza Navona). Another simple and crowded shrine to good Roman grub.

Quite smart

For something a little different or a little smarter here are some less touristy eateries with a cosmopolitan atmosphere.

Enoteca Antica

Via della Croce (near the Spanish Steps). A small wine-bar-restaurant with a cosy atmosphere. The pizzas are good and reasonably-priced, and for dessert they serve gorgeous chocolate cake.

Di Fronte A

Via della Croce, 38 (near the Spanish Steps). A popular restaurant with a youthful, international atmosphere and art hanging on the walls. The menu is extensive and varied - our favourite is the Pizza della Casa with cheese and truffle.

Le Pain Quotidien

Via Tomacelli 24/25 (near Via del Corso). This Euro-chain specialises in filling breakfasts and large salads. There's nothing local about it, but the atmosphere is friendly (with large shared wooden tables) and their breakfasts fill the gap left by typical hotel fare.

Hip eating spots

If you want to hang out with Rome's super-tanned, jewellery-clanking celeb trash, you'll need to get up to date with the current 'in' places - fashionable society in Rome moves en masse from one place to another. Here are some of the options:

Target

Via Torino, 33 (near Metro Repubblica). A smart restaurant with a restrained atmosphere on weekdays, Target is handily located for the Teatro dell'Opera, and opens late. Good house wine. Highlights include cold dessert crepes, and the orecchiette ('little ears' pasta).

'Gusto

Piazza Augusta Imperatore,9 (near Via del Corso and the Spanish Steps). A restaurant, pizzeria, wine bar and bookshop. It's been around a few years now, but Gusto is still a modish spot for Sunday brunch as well as serving good dinners and pizzas. Outdoor tables are atmospherically located, opposite the Mausoleum of Augustus.

Prado

Via Mameli, 5 (Trastevere). Prado has a PA system which is used to request diners to move their double-parked sports cars. It's busy and buzzing, but prices are surprisingly normal (pizzas under ten euros) and the food is extremely good. A favourite with footballers.