Sicily Tourist Guide

Taormina - Castelmola Walk

This half-day walk has some steep sections, so it's a good way to work off all the fine Sicilian meals. On a clear day the views down over Taormina, across the coast and towards Etna are fantastic.

The walk includes Castelmola, the village you'll see perched high on crags above Taormina, and its ruined castle, as well as the larger ruined castle that hovers directly above Taormina.

The first section, Taormina to Castelmola, was rather mossy and neglected at the time of writing (Spring 2004), and is the least inspiring stretch, so if you prefer to skip the uphill workout you can take a bus from Taormina to Castelmola and start from there.

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Taormina - Castelmola

From Porta Messina, head uphill and turn right past the fountain and archway. Follow Via Dietro Cappuccini. After a short stretch of road, you'll come to a path leading uphill on the left, clearly labelled as Salita Branco. Once an old mule-path, the concrete steps (rather mossy and overgrown) head upwards past the buildings of the local school. This climb is tiring and not particularly interesting, apart from the views back over the sea. When you reach the main road, cross over. Take the lane which continues upwards towards a cluster of houses. Following the small signs for Castelmola (with a pedestrian symbol) you'll find yourself on a path winding around to the right, under the crags on which the village sits. Looking back, you may see traces of the historic necropolis on the ridge - but you'll get a better view on the route back down. The steps are steep, so when you emerge into Castelmola's Piazza San Antonio you'll probably feel you deserve a long cold drink at the outdoor tables of the Bar San Giorgio.

Castelmola

Castelmola is an interesting and picturesque settlement, where a certain rugged authenticity mixes with tourist-oriented craft shops. Signs lead you uphill to the thirteenth-century Castello, which is dramatically situated to command the hills and valleys. The little streets and alleys are worth exploring before you make your way back down to Taormina. The little town has a suprisingly imposing Duomo, and several smaller churches, including the Chiesa di San Giorgio (1450) which contains a charming little statue of St. George on his charger.

There are plenty of restaurants and cafes in Castelmola, but a nice alternative is to pick up a picnic lunch from the friendly Mini Market general store along Via A. de Gasperi (which leads from Piazza San Antonio). You can have the rolls filled with delicious local cheeses, or whatever you fancy, and sit down for a pleasant outdoors meal on the next stretch of the walk.

Castelmola - Castello - Taormina

Aim downhill from the area of the Duomo, and you should find yourself on a road wide enough for cars, curving around the base of the village. The pedestrian path to Taormina descends from this road, with a signpost to identify it. First port of call is the tiny Chiesa di San Biagio (locked), which - according to the sign outside - dates back to the first century. The trail has obviously come in for some generous funding, as most of the descent is wide and paved, complete with a handrail and lamp-posts. There's even a panoramic picnic spot with stone seats, a water tap and a litter bin. The path is lovely, dropping through ancient cultivated terraces - mostly now overgrown with cactus and rampant wild flowers, which also quilt the grassy banks. A few intriguing cottages, semi-ruined, dot the slopes. After the picnic spot, as you approach the ridge, look upwards for an excellent view of the necropolis: a rocky outcrop above, peppered with dark grave-openings. Shortly after this, through a stone gateway, the funding obviously ran out. The path deteriorates into a narrow track, where you are practically wading through undergrowth. However, the footpath does continue, and finally descends in little steps to a narrow lane. Turn left to reach the main road.

From this point you can either descend to Taormina, or continue with another climb up to the fortress above the town. For the latter, continue for a short way along the main road to the left. Then a steep staircase on the left allows you to head straight uphill, cutting through the zigzagging streets. A stiff climb later, and you emerge on the spine of the ridge, by a bus stop on the main road. Cross over for the approach road for the castello (which passes several bars and restaurants). There are great views over Taormina from outside the chapel at the end of the lane, the Santuario della Madonna della Rocca. A small window at eye-level enables you to glimpse the church interior, which is cut into the rock. A path leads upwards to the castello entrance: however at the time of writing (Spring 2004) the ruins were closed to the public. Back at the chapel, a long zigzag path leads back down to Taormina, past the traditional Stations of the Cross, offering plenty more panoramic photo-opportunities. You emerge on Via Circonvallazione, above Corso Umberto.