Sicily Tourist Guide

Siracusa Tourist Attractions Part 1: Mainland

The majority of Siracusa's fine sights are archaeological and historical, bearing witness to the grand past of this Sicilian town. The attractive historic centre on the island of Ortigia is a good place to stroll, shop and eat, but for the main monuments you'll need to head ashore.

Ortigia is the hub of tourist Siracusa, but Greek Syracuse covered a large area inland, and many of the finest archaeological sights are to be found in the less built-up area around the archaeological park, or among the modern streets.

> Find a hotel or B&B in Siracusa
> Siracusa travel and practical information

An extremely good map showing all of Siracusa's streets and attractions is available. If your hotel/B&B doesn't have a copy, ask at the Tourist Office on Via San Sebastiano (opposite the Catacombs of San Giovanni). Note that Siracusa's attractions usually close for lunch (except the archaeological park), on Mondays, and sometimes in the afternoon, as well as varying their hours throughout the year. Check the latest opening times with the tourist office on your arrival in town to avoid disappointment.

You can buy joint tickets for Siracusa's sights, which cover the archaeological park, the archaeological museum and Palazzo Bellomo.

Archaeological Zone: Neapolis

The city's best sight is its superb Archaeological Park of Neapolis, which includes a range of monuments in its limits, with more to be seen just outside (don't miss the vast Altar of Hieron, which can be seen from the little approach road).

Siracusa's Greek theatre (Teatro Greco) is one of the finest and largest of its kind. Cut directly into the rock, it was enlarged and modified several times over the centuries, and is still in use today - Greek plays are performed here in summer months.

Up above the Greek theatre is a low cliff with several caves cut into it, including a nymphaeum, where statues once surrounded the water feature.

The deep quarry to the east of the theatre is called the Latomia del Paradiso (Paradise Quarry), and it's a peaceful and green spot, filled with vegatation and lemon trees. The most famous sight here is the huge cave called the Ear of Dionysius (Orecchio di Dionisio). Apparently it was Caravaggio who coined the name; the connection with Dionysius is the story that this ruler of Ancient Syracuse used to eavesdrop on prisoners incarcerated here thanks to the cave's acoustics. A second cave nearby, the Grotta dei Cordari was used by the ropemakers who gave the place its name.

Further along past the quarry - you'll need to leave the archaeological park and follow Via Romagnoli around - are more quarries and a dramatic necropolis, with burial-niches cut into the rock - the most grand of these was traditionally supposed to be the burial place of Archimedes.

Outside the main park, but included in the ticket, is the Roman Amphitheatre (Anfiteatro Romano), a wonderfully evocative spot, more so because unlike the Greek theatre, this is overgrown, covered in flowers and seemingly overlooked by the tour parties.

Once outside the park area, if you head back behind the stage of the Greek theatre, past a restaurant, and turn right up a hillside road (about 5 minutes walk) you'll see a smaller Roman theatre, the Teatro Lineare. There's not a huge amount left to see, but it's an interesting contrast to the grander curved Greek theatre.

Museo Archeologico Regionale 'Paolo Orsi'

Named after a prominent archaeologist, Siracusa's archaeological museum has a fine and extensive collection. It's divided into three sections the first of which covers Sicily before the Greeks, from fossilised dwarf elephants to Bronze Age grave goods. The second section is devoted to the Greek colonies around Siracusa, and contains artistic masterpieces such as the statue of Venus Anadyomene (a Roman copy of a Greek original), as well as great chunks of temple facade and row upon row of votive offerings. The final section contains finds from other parts of Sicily, including Gela.

Easier to deal with than many Italian museums, the purpose-built Museo nevertheless suffers from misapplication (or exhaustion?) of funding, with decaying carpets and a lack of wardens and facilities. A planned, cordoned route takes you past every single exhibit - frustrating for those with a short attention span, but helpful to the thorough tourist. Many of the information labels have English translations. You'll need to allow a couple of hours for the museum, or more if you want to read all of the detailed information boards. Closed Mondays. Viale Teocrito 66.

More Mainland Siracusa Tourist Sights

Inland, there are several sights of interest worth seeking out among the more modern streets.

Catacombs of San Giovanni

The Catacombs of San Giovanni (close to the archaeological museum) were built to house the remains of Siracusa's substantial Christian community. They were built when Christians were no longer persecuted, so there was no need for secrecy and the tunnels are less cramped and claustrophobic than earlier specimens. They're rather tame to those who've visited Rome's immense catacombs, but they're still atmospheric. Much of the structure was built out of an earlier water system. There are different kinds of grave, from small niches to elegant arched chambers. A guided tour takes you around the tunnels and points out interesting spots, such as traces of painting - some of the tours are in English, but you may have to wait or return later in the day for one of these. The tour includes the lovely ruined church of San Giovanni - in the summer weddings still take place in the charming garden-nave, open to the sky. In inclement weather, services can move indoors to the Crypt of San Marciano (St. Marcian - the first bishop of Siracusa), which is one of the most interesting spots on the tour.

Latomia dei Cappuccini

After defeating a Greek army sent from Athens, Syracuse's prisoners of war were packed into the city's quarries and left to starve to death. The quarries at Neapolis are atmospheric, but to see the Latomia dei Capuccini, where this unpleasant incarceration is said to have taken place, you'll need to walk or catch a bus out to the end of the Riviera Dionisio il Grande. The quarries are closed and gated, but around the corner to the left you get a good view through the railings of the overgrown pits.

Basilica di Santa Lucia

Standing at one end of a picturesquely long and dusty piazza, the Basilica di Santa Lucia is dedicated to Siracusa's patron saint. There are extensive catacombs under the church, but sadly they are closed to the public.

Santuario della Madonna delle Lacrime

Siracusa's modern pride is the unusual Santuario della Madonna delle Lacrime, a church which is supposed to resemble a teardrop, and which makes a good landmark when navigating your way around town. The church commemorates a small icon of the Madonna which began weeping tears in 1953.

Other archaeological sites

More relics of ancient Siracusa include the Greek Arsenal, (on Via dell'Arsenale), where blocks of stone are all that's left of the naval base. The Ginnasio Romano, actually a Roman theatre, can be seen on Via Elorina, and a fenced-off area of the pleasant Foro Siracusano park contains some columns to admire. Ruins of the Greek and Roman eras can also been seen exposed in front of the Santuario della Madonna delle Lacrime, in Piazza della Vittoria.

> Read on: the island of Ortigia.